Organic Beauty Week….and my vow to go Cruelty Free

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For the longest time I’ve been planning to write about this. Early last year I made a vow to go ‘cruelty free’ with all the cosmetics and cleaning products I buy, in-line with my rules on the animal products I will and won’t eat. It’s taken me until now to really feel like I’ve got the hang of it though, because of the ridiculous rules on labelling (or lack thereof!), misleading claims, and generally struggling to decide what my absolute rules were. But because I feel I’m finally in a position to share my thoughts on this, AND because it’s Organic Beauty Week, I thought I’d get down to writing up some of my experiences.

As I’ve tried SO many products, I figure I’m best writing about each ‘category’ separately, so that I can share a more comprehensive review for the things I would (and wouldn’t!) recommend. For now though, I thought I’d share the basic principals of what I decided to do.

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My reasons for going cruelty free were nearly completely to do with animal welfare. It’s true that there are personal, human gains to be made by choosing better products of course, and there are certainly environmental benefits….but we have to pick our battles, and for me it’s all about the animals. As far as I’m concerned, there is no excuse for mistreating animals. We’re not more important than them, and even if treating them cruelly is the ONLY way to get that amazing lipstick, I just can’t see how that can be a fair trade off. Besides, many companies use human testers to check the safety and quality of their products, instead of animals….and certain products don’t even need testing because they’re created from all natural ingredients. So why should we support companies who needlessly torture our defenceless, animal friends?

In short, I strongly feel that animals are not ours to treat however we like for our own gain.

In Europe, as of March 2013, a new law was implemented that made it illegal to sell animal-tested cosmetics in Europe, even if the testing was done outside Europe. The result has been a boom in investment in non-animal testing methods, with many major companies turning their backs completely on animal testing. A number of animal tests have even been completely replaced with superior, cheaper and more effective non-animal methods.

This is of course great news, but it’s not all that simple and rosy….in fact, in some ways, it makes it even trickier for us consumers!

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Although companies are no longer allowed to sell animal-tested cosmetics here in Europe, they *can* continue to test cosmetics on animals outside Europe and sell them in other markets. This means a company that sells here can still profit from cruelty to animals…just not in Europe. The problem is exasperated because many large emerging markets, actually have laws that say cosmetics *must* be tested on animals before they can be sold there. So, you could be buying a mascara that isn’t itself tested on animals, but from a company that *does* test on animals….and therefore supporting their cruel practises and adding to their profit.

And as if that doesn’t make things tricky enough, some companies who label themselves as ‘cruelty free’ have sold out to larger companies who certainly are not….which I personally think is even worse! I like to write positive things, and certainly don’t want to advertise any companies who I believe are bad (*cough*), but you can find lists online to help you avoid them (more on that later).

There is also the matter of animal *products* in cosmetics. Again, this is not essential, and so I would largely argue that all cosmetics ought to be vegan. The exception (as far as I’m concerned at least) are products that support the environment and the protection of certain creatures… Neal’s Yard for example have an organic honey-based collection and campaign called ‘Bee Lovely‘ which raise funds and awareness to help save our declining bee population.

So… with that in mind, here are my own *personal* rules. They’re by no means permanently set, and in fact have been slowly evolving since I decided to do this…..

  1. First and foremost, I don’t want the cosmetics and household products I buy to be tested on animals.
  2. Secondly, I don’t want to buy anything which contains any ingredients that are tested on animals. This includes make up, beauty products, laundry products, household cleaners and gardening products.
  3. Ideally, I want to buy things which have *never* been tested on animals, however in certain circumstances I will buy products that contain ingredients with a ‘Fixed Cut Off Date’ as I feel that this can send a message to companies that I want them to make a move towards non-animal testing.
  4. I will not buy cosmetics or household products from companies who are owned by a company that tests on animals, even if they do not test their products or ingredients themselves. As far as I see it, I’d be helping the parent company to make a profit and therefore supporting their cruel practises.
  5. Mostly I’d prefer to buy vegan products (ie. that contain no ingredients derived from animal products), but I will make exceptions for ingredients that have been responsibly sourced, especially if they promote the safe and cruelty free increase of declining populations.
  6. I’d prefer to buy from cosmetic companies that only sell vegan products, and I will definitely not buy from a company who sells animal-tested products, even if the product I’d like to buy hasn’t been tested itself.
  7. I will vote with my feet….supporting brands that I feel are making a concerted effort and ditching those that I think are not.
  8. But I won’t waste and throw away any unfinished products that I bought before setting these rules, or that I purchased in good faith according to these rules (and subsequently found that I’d been mislead!)….I see this as a terrible waste of resources and having to replace all my makeup, beauty and laundry products and household cleaners all in one go would have been impossible!

That’s my list for now, but I’m sure it will continue to develop as I learn more and more. It can be really hard to find out whether a product meets these criteria, so I try not to beat myself up about making mistakes along the way….things change rapidly, companies are sold off, others change policy or start to sell in different countries…it’s a minefield, but I’m trying my darnedest and that’s all I can do!

If you feel you’d like to make a similar vow, I would advise you to check your products thoroughly before going shopping. It’s time consuming and infuriating, and sometimes you just want to buy on a whim, but largely it’s the only way to be sure what you’re buying really is cruelty free. The Soil Association’s Campaign for Clarity highlights just how ambiguous labelling has become, and it really is important to use several tools to check before you buy. Here are some resources I’ve found good to use holistically:

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The ‘Leaping Bunny‘ is probably the label you’re going to see most in your quest to find cruelty free products, and you’ll find it on cosmetics as well as household products. The label is issued by Cruelty Free International, and you can read their criteria on their website. Basically though, companies displaying this logo must guarantee that no animal testing takes place on their products or the ingredients these products are made up of, after a fixed cut-off date. They must also actively monitor their supply chains, obtaining yearly assurances that no animal testing has been conducted after this fixed cut-off date, and agree to an independent audit of their supplier monitoring system.

They have a helpful product search on their website too, as well as PDF lists which I like to save in my phone so that I can check on some things on the go.

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PETA also issue their own ‘cruelty free’ bunny logo. Their website offers a search facility too, and you can also view lists of companies who *do* test as well as ones that don’t, which I find useful (although depressing at times!). All companies that are included on PETA’s cruelty-free list have signed PETA’s statement of assurance or submitted a statement verifying that neither they nor their ingredient suppliers conduct, commission, or pay for any tests on animals for ingredients, formulations, or finished products. Companies must pay a license fee to use the bunny logo though, in addition to meeting these criteria. Oh, and there’s an additional logo in the same style which also states if a product is vegan too.

Unlike the Leaping Bunny, PETA does not conduct audits of company facilities, instead relying on the fact that companies are putting their integrity on the line.

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The International Vegan Trademark can be seen on all sorts of products, and is well regarded as a pretty stringent benchmark. In order to use the logo a company and its products must not involve, or have involved, the use of any animal product, by-product or derivative. Furthermore, the development and/or manufacture of the product, as well as its ingredients, must not involve, or have involved, “testing of any sort on animals conducted at the initiative of the manufacturer or on its behalf, or by parties over whom the manufacturer has effective control”.

Other logos can be helpful, such as the Soil Association’s organic logo (because their criteria also include animal welfare) but do be careful as there are a myriad of misleading labels out there. There is no international regulation to rely on and many companies will make claims such as ‘Not Tested on Animals’ on their packaging, when in fact they do. I’ve taken to typing the name of a brand into a search engine along with the words “animal testing” to throw up useful information, and have also found this helpful guide to reading packaging, and avoiding being mislead. Another good thing to do is to write to any company you’re unsure about….this will help put your mind at rest and sends a message to them that animal welfare is something they ought to think about.

As I say though, you have to do a lot of sleuthing as things change so rapidly and many companies will make claims that are heavily misleading. I’ve found a load of useful posts on personal blogs though, often by people like me who share information they’ve found and review products that are worth trying. You simply can’t take for granted that the products you use every day are not tested on animals though, sadly, and in my opinion we consumers have a responsibility to think about what we’re buying and send a clear message to companies that animal testing is not acceptable.

I hope this has all been helpful, and has encouraged you to think about going cruelty free. It’s good to remember that it takes time to get things right, and that there is a steep learning curve to follow, so don’t beat yourself up if you don’t get it all figured out right away. Decide on your own personal standards, work on one product at a time, and enjoy trying new things. And as a reward for making it through this rather lengthy post, here’s a baby rat picture for your enjoyment….

Ems x

 

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N.B. My posts always reflect my own, personal views. All information here is written to the best of my knowledge, but is certainly not exhaustive. I’m always delighted to hear the views of others, and to continue learning, so please let me know if you have anything to add!

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Wednesday Wants: Shoe Embassy

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Shoe Embassy was established in 2011 and shortly afterwards, when I found them at a Brick Lane market, I bought my first pair. Two years on, and I can safely say they are the best pair of shoes I’ve ever owned. My camel coloured ‘Foxy Brown‘ boots (pictured above) have seen me through just about as much as you could ask of any shoe….they are fleecey lined and have kept my usually cold toes warm, kept smart and solid despite the hundreds of miles I’ve walked in them, and remained comfy even in hot weather and after hours of pavement pounding and dog walks.

I suppose what impressed me first about Shoe Embassy is the fact that all their shoes are leather inside and out, and that despite their amazing quality, they are incredibly well priced. I have paid through the nose in the past to try to get comfy shoes for my weird feet, but these bargainous boots are the only ones I’ve ever managed to break in right away and with no discomfort.

Now that I’ve moved out of London, I’ve been waiting and waiting for their website to launch, and finally I can now buy online! There is a great choice of boots, shoes, flats, flip flops and heels in all sorts of charming designs. All are leather and made in Europe. You can also buy them at Camden Market, Spitalfields and Greenwich Market, but with the online shopping temptation I fear I’ll be buying up several pairs before long!

Here though are my favourites…..so far!…..

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When I bought my Foxy Brown boots I had a tough choice between all the other lovely brown boots. The colour goes with EVERYTHING and because they’re not too bulky, I can wear them with dresses as well as skinny jeans. These ‘Al Capones’ are a great halfway house between boot and shoe though, with a thin and flexible sole, low top and fancy brogue-ish pixiness. They also come in two-tone versions of black and white, and charcoal and sepia!

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Not only did I struggle to choose a boot style, but I also had to pick a shade of brown! I love the amber richness of my boots, but there is something distinctly retro and classy about these ‘Doodle Dandy‘ boots, which have a beautiful taupe outer, with a flashy violet lining which can be exposed by folding down the tongue! Fun *and* wearable!

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Speaking of fun, how wonderful are these babies?! The Spectator shoes are so wonderfully nostalgic and bright. I adore the soft vanilla panels and dark blue toes and heels, and the cleverly included red trims really make them special.

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And for more red….I am crazy about these ‘Pixie-Oh‘ booties in Chilli. They are wonderfully pointy and buttery soft, and you can fold down the tops to make them even more versatile. And I really *should* have a pair of red boots.

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Back to being sensible though for a while, and these ‘Twirlie‘ shoes in Amber look like a seriously sound investment. Dainty and delicate, these angels have a feather-light sole and a super soft ankle, so your feet will be happy happy happy…. and not to mention beautifully adorned. I can see me wearing these non-stop through summer with girly dresses, frilly skirts and short trousers, as they really do go with anything.

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I am nearly always in need of a pair of sensible black shoes, perhaps because I don’t often find them exciting enough to buy. These ‘Quarter Oxfords‘ in black though are seriously cute and wearable….how lush would they look with brightly colours tights and a mini skirt?!

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I can’t be sensible forever though, and I therefore give you….blue suede shoes! Well, Indigo Nubuck to be accurate, but this Elvis lover thinks the King would approve. And at just £55 I think they are a snip, if only for the chance to dance around in them, singing like a lune.

I really can’t tell you just how comfy my Shoe Embassy boots are, and I constantly get complimented on them. It’s so wonderful to finally have found a company who sells such a great range of styles, exclusively in leather (for my feet will not last two minutes in anything else!) and at such a great price point. And if I could only ever buy shoes from one place ever, I wouldn’t be too upset knowing that Shoe Embassy have me covered!

Ems x